Phototech of Midland, is a locally owned, custom photo lab, providing the highest quality work in the permain basin of west texas. we specialize in custom photo processing from both film and digital sources. We service both amatueur and professional clients, as well as the average consumer who demands high quality printing. photoaffections.com specializes in creating custom photo christmas cards, photo birth announcements, photo wedding announcements, photo engagement announcements, baby birth announcements, and photo cards for all special occasions. With over 100 standard and exclusive designs, photo affections.com is a trusted source for service and quality and creativity.

Fuji Film has an excellent resource on the web for your digital camera questions. Of course, we are always available to help too!

Many people are intimidated by all those buttons on their cameras, particularly with digital cameras. While this information will not substitute for a good book or manual, the following tips will assist you in taking better pictures today! These are the issues we most offten encounter when helping people in the store.

Picture Composition

Go Vertical: Over 70% of the images we see are taken horizontally. You would be surprised how much of a difference can be made by taking some of the same shots vertically instead, especially when photographing people. With the exception of some professional portraits and group photos, vertical shots of people are usually the most pleasing to the eye.

Get Closer: Also, instead of taking a picture from so far away, get physically closer, not just by zooming. Whether taking pictures of people, pets, or other objects, closer pictures lend an improved sense of intimacy and will most often better represent the subject as how you saw it. Experiment, don't be afraid of getting too close.

Rule of Thirds: Additionally, most photographers follow the rule of thirds. When looking through the viewfinder or lens, divide up your frame into vertical and horizontal thirds. Instead of placing your subject dead center, move the center of your subject a third left or right, and up or down. Doing so gives a better sense of perspective, and captures a scene more completely. Notice that in each image on the left, the subject is not in the middle.

Fill-In Flash

This is a feature of most cameras that often goes overlooked. Suprising to most people, the fill flash gives the best results in outdoor, and sunny weather. When taking pictures in sunlight, shadows are created everywhere, particularly across people's faces, and in dappled shade. Using the camera's fill-in flash will do a great job of evening the exposure by eliminating or greatly reducing shadows.

Using the fill-in flash will require most users to manually turn their camera flash on. But, most people are confused by this, because they have an "automatic" camera. The problem here, is that while the camera is doing it's job by reading the available light, it obviously cannot detect the possible shadows that might occur. Using the fill-in flash for outdoor pictures will go a long way to improving the results.

Focus Lock

Another often overlooked feature of even most "point and shoot" cameras is the Focus Lock. Have you ever wanted to take picture with your subject off center, yet still want them to be the focus? This couldn't be any simpler. When composing the frame, initially place your subject in the center, press the shutter button down lightly and only half-way. Then, while holding down the shutter button half-way, move the camera in the desired direction and then fully press the shutter button.

Shutter Button / Not so fast!

We see this a lot! One of the most common ways to end up with blurred pictures is by pressing the shutter button and releasing it, in one single motion, particularly with digital cameras. Rather than just pressing the button and releasing, try holding down the shutter button until right after the picture is taken. This way, you are holding your camera more steady while the split second the shutter is open. Of course, SLR camera owners need to be sure they are not in multiple exposure mode when doing this.

LIke other "custom labs," Phototech stives to set itself apart from the mass merchants by offering superior print services, valuable knowledge and consistently reliable customer service.

Unfortunately, these days most people are inclined to believe that when they receive bad prints, they themselves are the cause, either having used the wrong film or the wrong camera setting, or that the film was old or somehow damaged. Most people are shocked to learn just how much control the lab actually has over the quality of their prints. With the exception of some digital prints and truly damaged or improperly exposed film, the lab is almost in complete control of how your prints turn out.

More important however, is the fact that most people are not even aware they may have received bad prints, since they do not have anything to compare them to. We have heard countless stories of where a customer has purcahsed a great camera, only to be horribly dissapointed with the grocery store results, roll after roll, after roll. Unfortunately, it usually takes many negative experiences before someone turns to a custom lab for assistance.

What can separate custom labs from "1-Hour" labs:

The People: Most custom and specialty labs find it necessary to have experienced personnel only. Our staff is trained to deal with most issues regarding photofinishing and digital imaging. Currently, our staff has a combined 24 years of experience.

The Equipment: One of the biggest challenges in photofinishing is keeping up with technology and keeping the equipment in top working order, particularly in regards to color balancing. This is one of the biggest differences between "1-Hour" labs and specialty labs, and it directly impacts the quality of your pictures.

The Time: Another big difference is the time labs such as Phototech take to produce an order. Since our priority is quality over speed, we focus most of our attention on the color, density and clarity of pictures. When working with film and our "Select" digital prints, our expertise is applied "frame by frame;" meaning that we judge, correct and enhance each image independently.

The Goal: Custom and specialty labs exist for one purpose, to provide photofinishing. Phototech's goal is to provide high quality images, period. While we do attempt to provide most services within the same day or the next day, our priority is not speed. Mass merchant labs, on the other hand, exist solely for convenience and price; they cannot afford to look at each picture that passes through their lab.

Phototech is the only lab in the Permian Basin that is has the experience and expertise to handle your digital photography questions. All of our personnel have been trained on digital camera functions and setttings and different types of digital storage media. In this section we present the issues we address most often in our store. Additionally, we have a section that addresses some myths and misconceptions regarding digital imaging.

Digital Camera Storage Media

Compact Flash: image Developed by SanDisk, Compact Flash is the most popular form of digital camera image storage. The most common storage capacities are both 128 and 256 megabytes, however capacities over 1 gigabyte are available, for a price of course. Compact Flash is also a handy and common storage method for files other than images. Compact Flash cards carry many brand names, such as Lexmark, SanDisk, Viking, in addition to the camera manufactures brands. Each brand is essentially the same.

Memory Stick: image Developed by Sony, the memory stick is used in most Sony digital cameras and camcorders and MP3 players. Similar to Compact Flash, memory sticks come in many capacities, the most common being 128 and 256 megabytes. Additionally, there are "double-sided" memory sticks. However in our experience, use of these has lead to some confusion and has resulted in the accidental erasing of images by many of our customers. Specifcally with memory sticks, we recommend "sticking" with Sony branded "single-sided" media.

XD Card: image Jointly developed by Fuji Film and Olympus, the XD card is the smallest of all digital storage media, barely as wide as a penny. The XD card was designed to achieve a small size and weight, along with minimal power consuption. Currently, XD cards are offered up to a capacity of 512 megabytes, however they should eventually carry as much capacity as Compact Flash or greater.

SD Card: image The SD Card is a highly secure stamp-sized flash memory card. Jointly developed by Matsushita Electronic (best known for its Panasonic brand name products), SanDisk and Toshiba, the SD Card weighs approximately two grams. The SD Card can be used in a variety of digital products; digital music players, cellular phones, digital cameras, digital video camcorders, and smart phones. Currently, SD Cards have a capacity of 512 megabytes.

Smart Media: image SmartMedia cards are as thin as a credit card, about the size of a matchbook, and can be easily identified by the gold-plated contacts that take up nearly half of one face. SmartMedia cards are used in most Olympus and Fuji digital cameras, Sharp camcorders with digital still mode, and some MP3 players. Smart Media cards are falling by the wayside to the newer types of image storage cards.

The following are the most common issues and problems that we have encountered when helping our customers with digital cameras.

Image Resolution: This is by far the most common problem we run into. Many people who purchase digital cameras rely solely on the information they receive from the person they bought the camera from, without ever opening their manual. Unfortunately, not addressing this issue can lead to very unpleasant and uninteneded results. The best advice we can give, is to ALWAYS set your camera to its HIGHEST RESOLUTION POSSIBLE. Please RESIST the temptation to reduce the resolution; you never know when you will have a picture that you want to blow up or crop. This way, you never have to worry!

Deletion of images: This issue runs a very close second to the image resolution problem. We see far too many people who greatly regret deleting images, all in the name of saving space on their memory card. Our advice... NEVER, NEVER, NEVER delete images off your memory card without first loading them onto your computer or properly printing and saving them on CD. Obviously if you have a blurred shot or a nice picture of the inside of your purse, this does not apply. For us, NOTHING comes closer to fingernails being raked down a chalkboard than hearing the word "DELETE" from our customers. Please take our advice (and save our ears) by resisting that delete button.

White Balance: In our experience, the White Balance feature of digital cameras is misunderstood, and as a result, used improperly or not used at all. Most digital cameras have an auto white balance feature which is adaquate for most situations. However, there are times where changing the setting is preferred. We have found that after changing the setting, most peope forget to change it back to the auto setting. This results in extremely bad color casts, usually orange or blue. While it is possible to "rebalance" a picture to some degree, the result would not be the same as using the proper white balance when taking the picture. For your benefit, we highly recommend reading your manual regarding the White Balance feature of your camera.

Cropping VS. Zooming: We see this situation a great deal... you want to get closer to the subject after the picture was taken. Granted, most of us don't want to worry about proper or exact composition when taking the picture. However, particularly with digital, image composition is quite important when it comes to the distance between you and your subject. Because digital images are made of pixels, when you crop an image, you cut out the number of pixels, which quickly starts to affect clarity. It is best to either get closer to your subject, or use your zoom lens when taking the picture; by doing so, you will retain the clarity. If you must crop, remember that only images that are taken at the highest resolution and with good exposure will yeild acceptable results.

Digital Myth # 1

"If I buy a high-priced digital camera, a 'photo printer,' and 'photo paper,' I will be getting pictures that are as good, if not better than I can get from a photo lab, since that is what all the magazines and TV advertisements say."

This is the greatest misconception regarding ink-jet printing at home. Understandably, we would like to believe that what we see in advertising is accurate. However, many companies who are not traditional photofinishers are competing for their own slice of the digital photofinishing pie. This has lead to "puffery;" a tendency to bend the truth in advertising, at best. At worst, and more common, a great deal of the advertising regarding ink-jet printing is absolutely unsubstantiated, and grossly misleading. We regularly see the terms "photo realistic," "photo quality," and "long lasting." Notice that none of these terms actually say "true photographic," or "guaranteed to last for 60 or more years." The fact is, that none of the companies making these statements in their advertising, have any idea just how long their ink-jet prints will last. Are your memories worth the risk?

On a side note; in the spring of 2003, Kodak began marketing a printer that is advertised to print "real 4x6 photos" at home. This is a perfect example of distorting the truth. Technically speaking, it is impossible to print a "real photograph" with a home printer, as real photographs are chemically based and NOT printed with ink. (See "myth" # 6.) Unfortunately, this type of advertising creates more confusion for consumers who have the best intentions when it comes to preserving their digital images.

Digital Myth # 2

"I print 8x10's from my home printer and they come out great! What are you talking about?"

Yes, the average person will be satisfied with images that are produced from their home printer. However, in talking with MANY people about their experiences with home printing, we have determined that most people are simply intrigued and amazed that they can even print "good" pictures at home. In our opinion, having been so enamored with the output, many people overlook the fact that they would never accept and pay for such an image from a photo lab if it were from film and printed on photographic paper. Not to mention, that they would be horrified if the lab employee informed them that the print would not remain stable more than 3 years, after they just paid!

The fact is, there is indeed a BIG difference between home ink-jet printing and true photographic printing, even from digital cameras. We encourage everyone to honestly compare the two.

Digital Myth # 3

"I am saving money printing my pictures at home."

This is not true. Even without factoring in the price of a "photo" printer, ink-jet printing is VASTLY more expensive than true photographic printing. According to several surveys published on the web (some by printer companies themselves), the average cost of a 4x6 ink-jet print is 70 to 90 cents; the average price of a 4x6 print from a lab is between 25 to 50 cents. Also, most people value their personal time. Ink-jet printing can be very time consuming, even when everything works as it should.

In our opinion, most people print at home because the want to be creative, and feel that they have better control over their project by doing it themselves, rather than turning it over to a lab employee who may not care what the end result looks like anyway. This may be true with some mass-merchants and labs, but not with Phototech. If you want your project to last and would like to design it on your own, we would be happy to explain the proper scanning and image editing standards to assist you. After you have completed your design, you can then bring it to us for photographic printing.

Digital Myth # 4

"Since I store my images on my computer or on CD's, my images are safe, archived and will last forever."

In our opinion, this is a very DANGEROUS misconception. Anything placed on any form of digital media, is anything BUT archival. Technology changes very often; it is the nature of the computer industry to continue to advance and grow. So, with this in mind, can you picture using CD's in 50 years? Additionally, CD's get scratched very easily, and are not readable forever. If your images are only on CD, chances are you (or your descendents) will find them inaccessible one day. As for storing images permanently on computer, this is the most dangerous "archiving" method of all. Most people don't have an untold amount of money and a herd of employees to own and maintain multiple computer back-up systems, such as say American Express. Truly archiving data in the computer world is an ongoing and dubious task, which obviously does nothing but grow with time.

The only true archival method of storing images, is to have them printed the traditional way, as you do when you have film developed. A scratched negative will always be printable. From digital cameras, true photographic prints will last for many generations, as opposed to a few months or years as ink-jet prints.

Digital Myth # 5

"I can get better picture quality from digital cameras, than I can from film."

This is certainly not true, and won't be for many more years to come. In fact, most people would be surprised to learn that a disposable film camera has a better potential for quality than the average digital camera. Digital cameras use pixels to create images; of course, in the most basic form, digital images like all computer generated data are just numbers, hence the term "digital." The largest consumer marketed (and affordable) digital camera is currently about 6 Megapixels (megabytes). An image from film is the digital equivalent of about 20 Megapixels. So, currently that means that digital cameras only produce an image that is less than one-third the clarity of film.

Granted, most 6 Megapixel digital cameras will make acceptable prints, unless you want to make enlargements. However, viewing most digital images beyond a quick glance will reveal the differences.

Digital Myth # 6

"Don't minilabs and photofinishers use ink to print their pictures; isn't this the same as what I can do at home?"

With the proliferation of ink-jet printing, this is a new myth that we have had asked of us recently, and yes - by more than one person! Fortunately for photographic consumers, this myth is absolutely not true. Interestingly enough, a couple of companies wanted it to be true.. Let us explain......

Today, when a roll of film is dropped off for developing, or a digital camera card it brought in to a true digital photofinisher such as Phototech, the images you receive are printed using traditional light-sensitive photographic paper, and photographic chemistry. While the method of exposing and printing the photographic paper has changed (lasers instead of light), the final product is the same-a print that will in fact, last for your lifetime and beyond.

However, there was new breed of photofinishing lab that was just around the corner, called Phogenix. Phogenix was a three-year joint venture between Kodak and Hewlett-Packard that was established to develop digital ink-jet minilabs for use in a retail setting. These labs were designed to be a less expensive alternative to lower volume photofinishers, but would be completely capable of printing images from all sources, including film. These images would have been printed using ink-jet technology. This joint venture was dissolved on May 14, 2003. www.phogenix.com

100 Speed Film: 100 Speed film is best suited for bright lighting situations. It is also a very fine grain film. You should use this film when the daylight is at it's brightest. For instance, when skiing, this film is very useful when the sun is shining. The snow reflects the daylight and over-exposure can happen easily with higher speed films. If you find yourself indoors, you can still use this film with your flash, but 200 would be best. This film should also be used in the summer when the sun is high in the sky. Additionally, this film is used when fine grain is a must, however this requires a tripod and an SLR camera in low light situations. It is not for general use in low light situations

200 Speed Film: 200 Speed film is the most popular of all film types. It can be used indoors with a flash and outdoors in normal lighting situations. It also has low grain for sharp pictures. However, in very bright situations, this film can be slightly over-exposed, such as an extremely bright day at the beach. It is the most versatile of the lower grain films.
400 Speed Film: 400 Speed film should be used in lower lighting situations. For example, an overcast, rainy or wintry day, or when the day turns to evening. You can also use this film indoors with a flash, just don't get too close to your subject to avoid over-exposure of faces, etc. This film has a higher level of grain.
800 Speed Film: 800 Speed film is relatively new to the photographic market. Although the clarity and color saturation of this film has improved in the last couple of years, it should NOT be your first choice if quality is your main concern. The film can be used in more lighting situations, however the pictures usually are of lesser quality because of the grain, which can be very evident, especially if it is under-exposed. It can also be over-exposed very easily. We recommend this film be used only by experienced amateur photographers, or by individuals who like the versatility, and do not mind the grain.
Over-exposure: Over-exposure is the result when too much light is let into the camera lens, hitting the film.. This can be caused by using a higher "speed" film (such as 400 or 800) in a point-n-shoot camera with very bright light, or when a camera shutter or light meter is not functioning properly on an SLR camera (such as the Canon Rebel). In very bright situations (for example, around 3pm on a hot summer day in West Texas) you should use 100 "speed" film. SLR camera owners will have more flexibility with lighting. You should consult your owners manual for camera settings.
Polarizing Filter: A polarizing filter (on an SLR camera) is very useful in deepening the blues in scenery pictures. It helps create an appealing contrast between the whites in clouds and the sky. Many amateur photographers keep this filter on their lens at all times.
SLR camera: SLR stands for "Single Lens Reflex." SLR cameras are used by most amateur photographers and all professional photographers, along with certain larger negative cameras. SLR cameras have interchangeable lenses, and are full of advanced features. One example is the Canon Rebel. The general consumer should not be frightened of purchasing an SLR camera. If you want good pictures, and are willing to devote an hour or so to learn some basic features, you will be very happy with the results. You can also use a variety of filters to enhance your photos.
Under-exposure:Under-exposure is the result when not enough light has been let into the camera. This can be caused by using a lower "speed" film (such as 100or 200) in a point-n-shoot camera in a darker lighting situation, or when the flash on the camera has not fired. In dim lighting situations you should use 400 "speed" film with a flash, or 800. However, the higher your film speed, the grainier your photo will be in a point-n-shoot camera. SLR camera owners will have more flexibility with lighting. You should consult your owners manual for camera settings.
UV (Ultraviolet) Filter: A "UV" Filter is the most common filter used on SLR cameras. UV filters help eliminate the bluish haze that can be seen in distant scenery pictures, and diminishes the yellowish cast that can sometimes be seen on the skin because of the sun. Because it can be kept on the lens for most pictures, many photographers use it as a lens protector.
Density: Density in a photo is the degree to which a photo is darkened or lightened. Any photo lab should have the capacity to lighten and darken photos during the printing process, (unless they are severely over or under exposed). However, in most photo labs this simple procedure can get over-looked when a lab is too busy to give proper attention, or when automated equipment is not reading a negative correctly. Any quality photo finisher will always take more time to improve and/or control print density.
Grain: Grain is difficult to explain, but you will know it when you see it. When grain is severe, you can see tiny dots all over the picture, and the picture might appear to be out of focus or fuzzy, and will usually be somewhat dark. This usually happens when a picture has been under-exposed. Also, higher speed films have a higher level of grain. These films have a greater sensitivity to light. With higher speed film, grain is usually evident, even with a normal exposure.

Main Film Info Digital Info & Myths The Difference Picture Taking

Ever wondered why there are so many different types of film? Have questions regarding digital cameras and digital imaging? In this section you will find information on most of the common questions and concerns regarding photofinishing, whether digital or film. We also have information to aid you in getting the best possible pictures BEFORE pressing that shutter button!

Information on the different film types and their suggested usage, in addition to film camera info.	Information regarding digital cameras, in addition to issues regarding different printing methods and digital storage media. Also, a section on common "Digital Myths."
All photofinishing is NOT created equally. Information regarding the differences in photofinishing methods and retail outlets.	Information and suggestions on proper picture taking, commonly overlooked or misused camera funtions. Small changes that can make a big difference!